Alpha Bakers -- Banana Chiffon Cake

I have a new home! After lots of soul-searching and apartment-searching, I've moved deeper into Brooklyn, to a quiet tree-lined street very near the buildings where some of my grandparent-generation family grew up. The apartment is, to me, a grandma apartment, with parquet floors and built-in cabinets and arched doorways. I love it. And it's a mess. A work in progress.

 

Between moving and other life things, baking and blogging has slowed. I did make an apple pie and some scones in there somewhere, and I'm sure I'll blog about them, but meticulous multi-step cakes were not on the docket. Even after my little kitchen was more or less set up (hello, Small Appliance Shelf!), I found myself avoiding cooking or baking, or gingerly cutting fruit as though I didn't belong there. Moving engenders in me a camping mentality that is hard to break, and I just didn't feel comfortable settling down to a big project. A few weeks in, I'm starting to feel easier, although everything still feels like it's in the wrong place and it would be a crime to smear the shine off of the microwave (this kitchen is so white).

Those who know me would be shocked to hear that I hadn't baked at all since moving on 9/14, until yesterday, 10/4, when I made both popovers and the Alpha Bakers project du jour, a Banana Split Chiffon Cake. Yes, people, it had been so long since I baked that there were beetles in the flour. Luckily, I am myself and there was a backup bag of non-beetled flour.

Everything else in place, at 10pm last night I pre-heated the oven, mushed up some bananas, separated and whipped some eggs, and made a chiffon cake. I used coconut oil in place of the recommended amounts of walnut and canola oils, but was otherwise faithful to the recipe on pp. 92 of The Baking Bible. The only place where I went astray was in getting it into the oven. As I went to put it in, I mistakenly picked it up by the center tube of the tube pan, causing a bit of a gusher that resulted in the 'undercrust' pictured above. No lasting harm was done, though, and the final result was a squishy, moist banana sponge with a strong (and welcome) lemon tang.

My original intention was to drizzle it with a bit of the chocolate ganache from the white chocolate brownies, but when I re-warmed that in the microwave at work I took it a bit too far and it was burned and separated, and best kept away from cake. Luckily, the cake itself was full-flavored and full of moisture and stood up well on its own, sans chocolate or even the other option, caramel (or my favorite suggestion, strawberry ice cream). I would definitely add all of the 'split' condiments for a fancier presentation, but the non-split banana cake holds up well on its own.

When I get my act together I'll post a little kitchen tour, and you too can see the wonder that is Small Appliance Shelf. For now, I made cake, don't be greedy!

Cakes and Cakes!

Baking phases come and go in waves. Inspired by my decorating session with Kristen and Jill, and by the ever-rolling tide of birthdays that fill the spring and summer months in my families, I've been making a lot of cake.

I've also been thinking more about cake, in the sense of giving more thought to the creation of unusual or special taste/texture combinations, rather than just following someone else's recipe. It's easy to over-reach in this vein--most people are happiest with pound cake and whipped cream, or devil's food with fudge. While I'm more than happy to whip up whatever makes the birthday person happiest (my preferred birthday cake is, I'll remind you, biscuits with whipped cream and ample berries), a birthday is a good excuse to work up a new speciality, or a surprise.

When planning a cake, I usually begin with a few pointers from the intended recipient or their spokespeople (i.e. 'Joe loves everything chocolate, but hates nuts.' 'Jane was really excited about some custard she had last year in Italy.') Sometimes, though, people give me too much freedom, and my imagination takes some bold leaps. This year, I was asked to make a birthday cake for my cousin Sophie, to be served at a family reunion. When I asked about her preferences, I was informed that she was a 'good eater,' and liked everything, and that I shouldn't consult her since it could then be a surprise. While the phrase 'good eater' is more associated in my mind with two-year-olds and meat animals than with my lovely 25-year-old cousin, I took the point. The options were endless.

My first idea was a riff on this ever-popular birthday cake, stolen from Smitten Kitchen and wildly popular among my friends (requested for 3 separate birthdays in 2012, if you're counting). Instead of chocolate cake with peanut butter cream cheese frosting and peanut butter chocolate ganache, I would alternate layers of chocolate and banana cake, and top it with the peanut butter cream cheese frosting. For the cake layers, I used Rose Levy Beranbaum's recipes for 'Miette's Tomboy' and banana cake, from Rose's Heavenly Cakes. For sanity's sake, I made six-inch cakes. The result (above) was great but a little on the tooth-achingly sweet side (my co-workers disagreed).

Using the remaining layers from the first cake, I made another. Same cakes, different buttercream. To add a little more austerity (heh) I made a caramel silk meringue buttercream. Not austere at all, actually, but the burnt sugar does cut the richness a bit.

This was an easier cake to work with, and more stable at warm temperatures than the cream cheese, but I did get some comments noting that the buttercream was overkill, and that a thin chocolate glaze might be more appropriate. However, this comment did come from someone who has frequently suggested that strawberry ice cream and/or pie would be better with chocolate, so the grain of salt was firmly in place.

It is true, though, that buttercream can be very very rich, and maybe it was all just shaping up to be a bit too much. I considered all-banana, with mango buttercream, but got some late-breaking news that banana might not be the birthday girl's favorite.

After toying with this for the better part of two weeks, I ultimately decided to simplify. For cake, I went all chocolate (double recipe of Miette's tomboy, baked in 8" pans, split into four layers). Late at night, I made the final choice: orange or strawberry buttercream? For a five year old's birthday party (or mine), I would have gone with strawberry, but I was assured by several sources that orange would be more elegant and more generally preferred. The final cake, pictured below after 25 puncture wounds, was chocolate with orange mousseline buttercream, orange curd, and pistachio cream (from a jar that has been taking up cupboard space--more on cleaning out the cupboard shortly).

Birthdays are one thing, but I also make cakes for no reason at all when I get in this mood, as witnesseth the following masterpiece--Almond Shamah Chiffon (also from Rose's Heavenly Cakes) cake with an apricot mousseline. This is a slightly moister chiffon cake made with almond flour. I think people were a little bit frightened by the lipstick redness of the buttercream, but the cake layers, moistened with a light soaking syrup, were perfectly textured.

TWD Follow-Up: Classic Banana Bundt

Tuesdays with Dorie is in valedictory mode, with Dorie on Talk of the Nation, and articles in major papers all over the country.

The Tuesdays with Dorie group is moving on to Baking with Julia, a twice-monthly affair.

But me. As I’ve pointed out, I’m not done. Not every goal gets finished. Not every cheesecake gets made. Still, I’m keeping my list, like I keep all the lists of my goals, and because this one can be done in small increments, I’m going to keep at it. For what reason? Not sure. But all the same, I do it.

This week, I did it in the form of a banana-pumpkin bundt cake. It was supposed to be a Classic Banana Bundt Cake, but I wanted to save one of my bananas for a smoothie, so the roasted leftovers of our squash chanukkiah were pressed into service.

The original host of this recipe was Mary of The Food Librarian, who later went on to develop quite the bundt cake obsession, making 30 in 30 days two years in a row.

Dorie recommends wrapping the cake and serving it the day after baking, also frosting it with a simple lemon-confectioners sugar glaze. The latter inadvertently helped us do the former, because Matt was put off by the word lemon, and it took him a while to warm to the idea of the cake, which we both loved.

So the project continues. Slowly. Everything happens slowly here lately, perhaps in reaction to the feeling that time is rushing by, out of control. So many big changes are upcoming, it’s good to still have a few bundts to bake.

Heavenly Cake Bakers: Many-Splendored Quick Bread

Holy Hyperbole, Batman.

That's a mouthful of a post title. What on earth was this heavenly, many-splendoured, phantasmagorical concoction? Well, the clue is in the second half of the name: it was a banana-squash-carrot loaf. A strange standout in a book full of complex and buttery cakes, this stubby little survivor clearly holds a warm place in Rose Levy Beranbaum's heart. Unprepossessing as it is, it even gets its own glamour shot in the book.

The original recipe called for grated carrots and zucchini, mashed banana, and walnuts. I used grated carrots (some splendiforously colored ones from the CSA), mashed bananas, and mashed winter squash. The walnuts were left out at Liana's request. Now that she lives with us, she gets a vote. The recipe also called for quite a bit of water, and because my morning teacup was sitting on the counter, I just poured in a measure of PG Tips instead (no discernable effect).

The finished project, made in mini-loaf pans, was soft, sweet, mildly greasy, and, to my taste, a little underseasoned. Not my favorite banana bread, but more than passable. I think the real key to this recipe is the addition of a variety of fruits and vegetables, opening up the imaginative possibilities for furture tailored-to-taste combinations. As a cook who often has a bit of this and a bit of that sitting around (see upcoming: juiced fibre muffins), it's a good reminder.

Tuesdays with Dorie: Lots of Ways Banana Cake

Two banana cakes in one week. Take it up with the cooking group gods--I just make the cakes. Today's banana cake was an extremely flexible recipe. With forgiving ingredients and a versatile nature, it could be dressed up or down, and nearly every ingredient could be substituted with another pantry staple.

I dressed it way down, and made a version using yogurt, butter and olive oil mixed, and dried red plums. It's addictive. Other TWD mavens created towering iced cakes, or mini-muffins. No one, however, seems to have taken Dorie's suggestion to cube the cake and use it as an element in a sundae. Given the weather, I'm surprised.

Even I, devoted Sweaty Baker that I am (seriously, it even says so in my profile), am a little undermined by the sweat bath that is a New York summer, so I've cut down on baking somewhat. Tomorrow, though, I'm going back to the bakery (albeit probably to make some ice cream), so things will be getting back on track.

The CSA posts have been on hiatus for a two weeks because, if you hadn't gathered, we've been out of town. Libby and Rob picked up the veg, and worked very hard to get it all used, which worked out for me too, as I was fed some very nice dumplings for yesterday's lunch. But look out for vegetables and the uses they inspire, coming soon.

Heavenly Cake Bakers: Chocolate Banana Stud Cake

Some dear friends (and former roommates) just moved back to town, and in hopes of luring them over often, I announced that every Monday night was cake sampling night. Of course, on the first Monday that they were in town, the Rose Genoise had already been made and eaten, and so I jumped ahead a little bit and prepared this week's Chocolate Banana Stud Cake.

No, much as Bear Week in Provincetown could make me wish it, this cake involves neither muscular men nor leather goods. The stud refers to the chocolate chips that are supposed to cover the surface of the cake, making an attractive studded pattern. I had bought mini chips, and after one round around the edge, wasn't having it and decided that sprinkling was fine. I liked the crunch that they added to the cake, which was kind of like a chocolate banana bread, covered in ganache. A little dry, next time I would underbake. This was a good cake, and definitely edible, but not one I would repeat, especially when the Devil's Food recipe is so good.

Heavenly Cake Bakers: Banana Refrigerator Cake

Oh banana cake, delicious banana cake. You are just like rich banana bread. I didn't have my food processor with me at the bakery, so I mushed bananas and sour cream by hand, and did the rest with a hand mixer.

I didn't get wonderful pictures this week, but the cake was perfect, light and moist and sweet. I had a little more trouble with the frosting. I think it's difficult making frostings in such small quantities, harder to control temperatures, more finicky, especially when they involve a sugar syrup (see next week's wonderful whoopie pies...).

In this case though, I think I just didn't love the Dreamy Creamy White Chocolate Frosting, which is essentially a mix of sour cream, cream cheese, and white chocolate. My chocolate seized, giving it a slightly less dreamy creamy texture, but it did taste good.

Although I doubled the recipe for my two-layer cake, I realized that that still wasn't really enough to fill and frost, as this amount was just supposed to be spread on top. It wasn't looking so beautiful, so I added some wonky buttercream stars. All in all, not my best effort visually, but tasted great. Visuals count though, it wasn't that great a seller.


I think, ultimately, that this one isn't an elegant cake, and would be better served in the manner that one of my fellow bloggers seems to have done, sheet cake, with icing on top. Next week, we continue in the 'inelegant but tasty' category with whoopie pies, vanilla, and, if I get to it, raspberry.

Tuesdays with Dorie: Cocoa-Nana Bread

This one went quickly--I didn't take a picture. In short, it was a banana pound cake made with cocoa. Overbaked, and a bit dry, but we dipped it in milk and ate it and enjoyed it. I didn't put in the extra chocolate chips that Dorie's recipe called for--it was good but not particularly noteworthy, I'd rather do plain banana bread with chocolate chips. If it's your kind of thing, though, the recipe is here.

As Matt put it, Dorie is taking care of him this [coming] month. Upcoming recipes include chocolate chip cookies, brownies, chocolate bundt cake, and honey wheat cookies. Expect to see them all here if we don't eat them first.

Tuesdays with Dorie: Banana Cream Pie

I'm behind, I'm bewildered, I'm bothered and busy. I barely made banana cream pie. But I love banana cream pie. Only crazy people and custard-phobes don't love banana cream pie. And, I suppose, a few people who unaccountably abhor bananas. But for me, banana cream pie is just great. Cream. Banana. Custard. Pie. This particular pie, which I'd made once before for the great pie extravaganza of 2008, is exceptional in every way, from the cinnamon pastry cream to the sour cream whipped cream. Cream cream cream. Of course, since we're trying pretty hard to eat like normal people and less like pastry chefs, who needs all that cream in the house? And when I'm trying to write five papers in one month and Matt's trying to be in a play, even the time to properly make and admire the banana cream pie is lacking. And it's Pesach. Still, it was banana cream pie.
So I made it. That lumpy thing above is the crust, with some buckwheat subbed in for some of the flour--buckwheat and bananas are a very good thing. I made it in a tart pan because I don't have any adorable little six inch springforms or pie plates. This is something I'm thinking about investing in, though, because seriously, what is the sense of making a nine inch pie for a family of two? Also, I was out of tin foil, so the prebaking was a little haphazard. (Are you getting a sense of what kind of week this was yet?)

I also managed to undercook the pastry cream and not care enough to take the two minutes to fix it, so the bottom layer was runny. After that, I lost patience and fixed the rest by cooking it a little longer, then dumped it on. I like this best a few hours after assembly, so the banana has time to permeate the pastry cream fully. It was a mess, but tasted wonderful.
Some time soon, banana cream pie, I promise to make you with proper attention and love, because you're a wonderful dessert. As it is, I might be scaling back on TWD this month, which is a lot of cakes and cream pies. Next week I may just make the Amaretti for the Chocolate Amaretti Torte. We'll see. As I said, it's going to be a busy month, but I'm still here. When Pesach is over, we'll see what we can do about the next step in the gingerbread project (hint, no one has shared any recipes yet...), and about more thoughtful blogging as CSA season and our rooftop garden get started up.
Meanwhile, there's sponge cake and matzo toffee crunch somewhere around here. Excuse me.

Everybody Digs

A few more subjective thoughts on the Ugandan food economy.
According to the Bradt guide, a very large percentage (in the high eighties, I think, or more--someone with a Bradt guide?) of the Ugandan population participates in agricultural activity. There are large farms and export crops, but the majority of this activity seems, from unscientific observations out of bus windows and a few conversations, to be subsistance. Almost everyone is growing a substantial proportion of what they are eating. In the words of the deputy headmistress at Liana's school, 'everybody digs.' Digging, the all purpose term for working in the kitchen garden, is largely conducted with small hoes, and is the province of women, children, hired day laborers (usually men).
There are markets, and there are certainly imports (rice, particularly), but the cassava, the plantains, the bananas, the sweet potatoes and 'Irish' potatoes, the maize and beans and greens, most of the fruit, the tomatoes and eggplants, the cabbages...most of this is, if a family is smart, coming from their own plot, or a few others that they rent or own nearby. Even most of what's in the market is coming from no further than a few towns away, (the larger Kampala market excepted). Tea is grown commercially, and widely drunk with spice influenced by and named after Indian chai. Coffee is mostly grown for export--if you ask for it in country, you get instant. Bread is available but terrible, usually stale.

In many ways, it's the locavore's dream--subsistence eating without chemicals. The diet probably relies too heavily on dubiously nutritious starches (plantains, cassava) and fats, and the water isn't always clean, but at least you know where just about everything came from. And it's so matter of fact. That's the part that kept blowing my mind--it wasn't some fad or some back-to-the-landiness, it was just how people were eating.Liana's thinking about going more seriously into farming, maybe getting some chickens, digging a good garden. I'll update on her progress as she sends me pictures, if she does, and in the meantime continue trying to convince her that a: nasturtiums and their leaves are great in salads, and b: that salads are food.

Tuesdays with Dorie: Black and White Banana Bread

After two weeks on a frantic apartment search and two weeks in Cape Cod away from my Baking book, here's a little Tuesdays with Dorie (or Morrie, as everyone in my life insists on calling it, my friends not being the type that care to cater to cutesiness nor accuracy at all times) action. [Pictures TK, my computer is in the shop getting a new soul].

I did actually make a Dorie Greenspan recipe last Tuesday, but it was a re-run and the site managers have discouraged those, so I'll keep it to myself officially, though pictures might appear here all the same. For the interested, it was the pecan sour cream biscuits, with added wild blueberries from Matt's parents' neighbors in Truro, who were having a bumper crop and so nicely shared. I wanted to make them a little thank you, so these not-too-sweet biscuits were perfect. In a daring move, I substituted strawberry yogurt for the aforementioned sour cream, and it more or less worked. (And no, they weren't pink.)

But pecan sour cream biscuits aside, this week's Tuesdays with Dorie selection was Black and White Banana Bread (recipe here), a marbled take on the classic that ups the butter and egg content to create a consistency something like bread pudding. Several TWD people expressed concern at the extreme mushy nature of their loaves, but having been forewarned, I enjoyed it.

The only modification I made to the recipe was to use 2 bananas instead of the recommended 1.5, and to decrease the butter by a corresponding amount (about 3-4 tablespoons). I took the whole thing over to some friends in Astoria, who had called me earlier in the week to say they were having a party. When I got there, I found one of them headed to the laundromat and the other puttering around, having canceled their party and neglected to mention it to me because I'd been vague about my attendance. Regardless, the banana bread (pudding) got eaten, and another Tuesdays with Dorie was fulfilled.