Showing posts with label jessica. Show all posts
Showing posts with label jessica. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Mazel Tov

I'm sitting here somewhere between having no idea who I am any more, and being more sure than I've ever been. Between the pouring rain and the raging swampy heat, the cold ocean and the primordially un-air-conditioned baking gig, I lost everything, and somewhere in the midst of all that water, I found it again. Along the way, I started two new jobs, gave notice at another, and asked the man I love to marry me.
Three tiers and an extra 9" cake waiting in the refrigerator under their first coat of buttercream.
He said 'of course.' Which is more or less what I assumed everyone would say after all these years. But being engaged turned out to be somewhat of a bigger deal than I had anticipated. I don't mean that it became a burden, or that anyone hired a skywriter. I mean what happened to me, and to Matt; the subtle shifts of responsibility and of commitment, the pleasure of our families, and the making of plans. Wedding plans may be a long way off, but in some new way, even more than before, we're planning the way we'll live our lives together. Some of it has been beautiful. Some of it has been very hard, I won't lie.  But in a deep, deep way, I feel like my life is beginning to move forward again, to break up the logjam, to grow.
Bowl, sieve, and spatula after straining roughly two quarts of lacquer glaze.
After the first glow of that 'of course,' Matt revealed the same exact question had been on his mind. In fact, he'd even started the process of ring shopping before he left for Avignon. Instead of being upset that I'd stolen his thunder, he was delighted that we had found ourselves in almost exactly the same place. If it weren't more than a little ass-backward, it just wouldn't be us.
The pristine perfection of the top layer, pre-transport.
And there there was wedding cake. Right in the middle of everything, in times so intense I feared things would go all Like Water for Chocolate on me, I made a three-tiered chocolate wedding cake for Jessica and Christopher and took it for the ride of its life (in crates, in the back seat, precariously balanced on bottles and old clothes) . Based on Rose Levy Beranbaum's Deep Chocolate Passion Wedding Cake from Rose's Heavenly Cakes, the cake was, as I've already described, Rose's German Chocolate Cake base, filled with passion fruit curd and passion fruit mousseline buttercream (light, spongy, marshmallowy, and tangy), and covered in a shiny lacquer glaze. The glaze is poured on warm, which allows it to form such a smooth, shiny layer.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to re-warm my extra glaze when assembling the cake at the wedding venue, so I accepted a few wrinkles and drips in the finished product. Any fears I may have had about the tower's look vanished as another friend of the bride arrived with boxes upon boxes of home-made sugar flowers, the loving work of several months. Together, we made one another look so good, and made the cake an impressive spectacle. I was so grateful to have the flower-maker on my team, and hope very soon to pester her into teaching me how she did it all.
The finished monster, covered in flowers.
While I was tiering and touching up the cake, the catering staff kept scaring me by asking me if that was all I had brought (it was), and if anything else would be served (not that I knew of, it turned out there were some truffles). I should have trusted Rose, though. Using her measurements, there was plenty of cake for all, in comparatively generous 'wedding-size' portions. In fact, the top tier managed to escape wholly unharmed, but only lived until the following day, when the newlyweds ate it for breakfast.
I have compared this cake to an upscale packaged snack cake on several occasions, but in practice it became something a little more--still light and fluffy, but served on fancy plates and placed on marble mantelpieces, it became elegant. I couldn't have done it alone though--without Matt to drive, position, photograph, and support me, without the faithful tasting crew and the online advice, without the friends who exempted me from all other wedding duties, and without the flower-maker who made it look so good, I would be nothing. Luckily, I have them all, and so I'm quite, quite, pleased with myself. Mazel tov, Jessica and Christopher, and thank you for your complete and unwavering trust in me.
Beautiful, no?
In these turbulent times, I want to wish joy and congratulations not just to the bride and groom, but to all of us figuring out our lives--to the friends finishing and starting dissertations, the friends moving from city to city, the friends walking across the UK, the friends starting new jobs, beginning new careers and new families, and becoming distinguished, the family old and new who loves me more than I can believe. To all those I treasure who struggle for and with love, who fight and sweat and treat each other right, and hold each other tightly. With Saturn returning for most of us soon, I couldn't be in better company, or more proud, happy, and grateful to know you all.

I'm gushing. But it's a good gush. As my mother says, it's always good to take advantage of any opportunity to celebrate a simcha. And this is certainly a simcha, which some would say is a mitzvah. Or a kosher beer. Or a pimp.
All photos in this post by Matthew Korahais.
L'chaim.

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Getting Underway

 The wedding cake planning begins in earnest. A few weeks ago, I met with the bride and groom, and with the bride's parents. We had ourselves a minor cake orgy. In the end, I made them three cakes to taste: a pretty straight version of Rose Levy Beranbaum's Devil's Food Cake with Midnight Ganache (and candied cherries), from Rose's Heavenly Cakes; a seven layer cake modeled on this one, and frosted on the outside with the same caramel ganache, and a version of Rose's Chocolate Passion wedding cake, which uses a German Chocolate cake base, a milk chocolate soaking syrup, and was filled with passionfruit mousseline buttercream and passionfruit curd, then glazed with Rose's Dark Chocolate Laquer Glaze. This last, which is light and spongy and resembles an extremely upscale ho-ho or ding-dong, was the winner. 
Now I find myself deep in calculations, mathing it all out on a monster excel sheet, bustling away. Wish me luck as the temperature climbs toward 99 farenheit.

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Wedding Cake 2011: Prototype #1

Wedding cake 2011 is underway. My friends Jessica and Christopher have asked me to make them a wedding cake, and their wedding is quite soon, and it's time to get going, especially as this cake will not only have to be made, but be transported to and assembled in Washington, D.C. in the height of summer. Flavor profiles are not quite nailed down, but the general themes of chocolate, caramel, and more chocolate have been established.

To get in the mood, I tried a version of Rose's Deep Chocolate Passion wedding cake from Rose's Heavenly Cakes. The cake is Rose's German Chocolate Cake base, soaked in a milk chocolate syrup, then filled with a buttercream or ganache, and finished with a lacquer glaze. For the filling and undercoat, I used leftover buttercreams that were waiting in the freezer--Chocolate Egg White buttercream for the filling, White Chocolate Lemon Buttercream for the undercoat. I made the lacquer glaze fresh.

I thought the cake was very successful, and the tasters at work agreed, although there was general consensus that the lemon/chocolate combo wasn't quite it. I am ambivalent about the lacquer glaze--it seems very delicate (can't put plastic wrap over it, etc...) although it does firm up out in the open air. I may need to come up with another strategy, as I can't glaze at the last minute. More to come soon, any ideas appreciated, as the countdown to Wedding Cake 2011 continues.

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Mystery Frosting Quiz

In the preliminary negotiations re: Jessica's birthday cake (and believe me, cake is no light diplomatic matter around here), she mentioned that she loves the icing that used to be found in old school Italian-American bakeries. According to her, this treat is not a straight buttercream, not a stiffened whipped cream, and it used to be sold packaged in stores when we were young. (Update: Jessica says it was not packaged in stores, but available on supermarket sheet cakes). My inquiries have yielded very little decisive info except the fact that large bakeries use wholesale quantities of gross-sounding products like 'Sweetex' and 'Bright White.' I have a feeling that this icing lives differently in the memories of everyone, and if you asked ten people they'd all say they remembered it and each be describing a different one. So far, I have one recipe I think might get me close, and I'll say no more until it comes to the test.

But, this seems like an excellent opportunity to open up the question, in the manner of the wicked son. What does 'old-fashioned Italian bakery sheet cake frosting' mean to you? Got a recipe? A memory? Please share. Your contributions could prevent an international incident.